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DESTINATIONS UK
THE
CHANGING FACE OF FEUDAL SARK

The smallest of the four main Channel Islands*, Sark is located
some 80 miles from the south coast of England and only 24
miles from the north coast of France. Not part of the United
Kingdom nor the European Union, Sark is reputed to be the
smallest independent feudal state in Europe and to have the
last feudal constitution in the western world.
Whilst not strictly speaking a sovereign state, under a unique
status the Seigneur of Sark, the head of the feudal
government, holds the island for the English monarch.
Confused? …well perhaps just a glimpse into the history of
Sark will help to explain the unique status of this
fascinating little island.
A few worked stone and flint finds testify to early life on
megalithic or Stone Age Sark. Still later it appears that
the Romans inhabited the island, possibly for a few hundred
years or more.
Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Dark Ages
ensued and with it historical fact gets a little vague. What
is known however, is that along with the new faith of
Christianity which was spreading across Europe at the time,
the missionary St.Magloire arrived in Sark around 560AD.
St.Magloire is credited with founding a monastery on the
north-west of the island (still known as 'La Moinerie'), and
from there he dispatched his friars to bring the Christian
faith to the other Channel Islands.

The monastery survived several raids by pagan Vikings
throughout the ninth century until the early 900s when the
next generation of Norsemen (now Christianised Norsemen
otherwise known as Normans) settled the region. The first
Duke of Normandy was Rollo, and it was Rollo's son William
Longsword who took possession of the Channel Islands in 933.
Sark’s long association with the English Crown dates back to
1066 when Guillaume Duke of Normandy conquered England.
Guillaume became King William I of England, also known as
‘The Conquerer’. Although he was now king of England, William
also retained his position as Duke of Normandy.
Later, when King John of England lost Normandy to King Philip
II of France in the early 1200’s, the Channel Islands
remained loyal to the English crown. In return for this
loyalty, King John granted the islands certain rights and
privileges which allowed them to be virtually
self-governing.
Over the next few centuries, the Channel Islands were subject
to many murderous French raids; the Sark community however
weathered these stormy times and by 1274 Sark had a
population of about 400, mostly involved in farming, fishing
and other ‘less legal’ shipping occupations.
It is thought that the Black Death was responsible for ending
the long period of continuous habitation of Sark, around
1348.
The strategic importance of Sark’s location in the Channel
meant that over the next few hundred years it was always the
subject of close attention, a fact that was particularly
influenced by the status of Anglo-French relations at that
time. In 1549 a French naval force of 400 men landed on the
island and established fortifications: they were eventually
expelled.
The fear of further French occupation led to Sark being
permanently settled again in 1565 by the Seigneur of St Ouen
from nearby Jersey, Helier de Carteret. Together with his
wife and several of their St Ouen tenants, the Heliers
moved onto the island.
Helier’s role was to ensure that Sark would never again become
depopulated and could rise, when required, to defend itself.
To achieve this he parcelled the land up into sections, each
large enough to support a family and charging a peppercorn
rent, he leased each parcel. Strict tenancy agreements
stipulated that a house must be erected on each parcel of
land and each tenant was required to provide a man, armed
with a musket and ammunition, to defend the island when
called to do so.

In 1565 Queen Elizabeth I rewarded Helier by granting him
the feudal title of fief, with an obligation to maintain 40
households and men with arms to defend the island and to pay
the Crown the twentieth part of a knight’s fee annually for
the privilege – in today’s money that is about £1.79! This
royal recognition formally established the constitutional
basis which survives on Sark to this present day.
The first forty tenants came mainly from Jersey, many were
either friends or family, but all were united by the strict
Presbyterian faith. Helier's settlers brought with them
Jersey laws and customs and Sark’s first parliament, known
as the Chief Pleas, met in November 1579.
With royal approval, the ownership of Sark changed several
times during the early 1700s until
in 1730
it was purchased by
Susanne Le Pelley, the widow of a prominent Guernsey
privateer. It was also around this time in history that the
effects of the revolution in nearby France began to lap the
shores of the island. The Le Pelley family however appear to
have responded well to any anti-feudal sentiment by
launching several public projects including the building of
a free school.
During the Napoleonic Wars new canon began to appear along the
cliffs tops of Sark, and the dutiful tenants kept to the
terms of their tenancy agreements by organising night time
vigils with arms at the ready to repel any attempted French
invasion.
The Industrial Revolution appears to have arrived in Sark in
1833 with the discovery of copper and silver deposits; this
led to the formation of the Sark Mining Company. To finance
the venture the Seigneur mortgaged the island with the hope
of finding lucrative veins of ore. 250 Cornish miners duly
arrived, along with all the equipment necessary to extract
the precious minerals. Those lucrative veins were never
found however, and the mines were eventually abandoned in
1847 leaving the Seigneur in serious debt.
Unable to afford the mortgage, the Le Pelleys sold the fief
of the island to the Collings family with the Reverend
W.T.Collings becoming the new Seigneur in the early 1850s.
Rev. Collings embarked upon a substantial building programme
which included adapting Creux harbour to accommodate the new
steam boat service from Guernsey. With this, the economy of
Sark changed almost overnight as the first tourists began to
arrive, staying at the newly built hotels and admiring the
local scenery including the Seigneurie’s once private
gardens.
During World War II, Sark was occupied by German forces
between 3rd July 1940 and 10th May 1945. Perhaps due to its
relatively small size and traditional reliance on
agriculture and fishing, the islanders appear to have
suffered less than they did on the larger of the Channel
Islands.

With the arrival of the 21st century, feudal Sark is
now being forced to adapt. In coming to terms with
international Human Rights legislation, major amendments have
already been made to its inheritance and tax laws, and
radical constitutional and administrational changes are
gradually being introduced.
Visitors to modern-day Sark however would hardly notice the
impact of the radical changes and reforms taking place. With
no airstrip, no motor cars or tarmac roads, life on Sark
remains visibly unaffected by modern life, and, perhaps it
is because personal transportation is restricted to foot,
bicycle or horse drawn carriages that the pace of life
appears more congenial and relaxed.

The islanders themselves now welcome all, or almost all, to
share in their haven. French invaders, or tourists as they
are called, arrive constantly throughout the summer months
via the local Guernsey - Sark ferry. Less welcome it seems
are the more local noisy neighbours from London who have
taken up residency on a nearby island. It appears that their
lack of
popularity is due in part to their desire to
change the traditional agricultural face of Sark.
*Jersey,
Guernsey, Alderney and Sark
Useful links
Stocks
Island Hotel Smugglers Valley above Pirate Bay,
Isle of Sark
Isle
of Sark - Sark Tourism
©HUK
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